There are some places you read about and see in photos that seem too perfect, too much like a storybook to be real. For me, Segovia was one of those places.
This city is just a short trip from Madrid, and it’s a real treat. Perched on a rocky outcropping, it’s a place where history isn’t just something you read about, but it’s all around you – in the streets, in the buildings, and in the way the city feels.
Where is Segovia?
Segovia is located in the autonomous community of Castile and León, in the heart of Spain. It sits just northwest of the capital, Madrid. The city is dramatically positioned on a rocky outcrop, with two rivers, the Eresma and the Clamores, running below it. Its elevated position and close proximity to the capital make it an ideal day trip destination.
A visit to Segovia can also be a perfect starting point for exploring the surrounding region, with stunning nearby destinations like the royal palace and fountains of La Granja de San Ildefonso or the incredible medieval walls of Ávila.
The Roman Aqueduct of Segovia
You can’t truly say you’ve arrived in Segovia until you’ve stood in the Plaza del Azoguejo and craned your neck to take in the sheer scale of the Aqueduct. It’s an imposing, magnificent structure that serves as a constant reminder of the city’s Roman origins. Built around the 1st century AD, this incredible feat of engineering was designed to carry water from the Fuente Fría river, over 17 kilometers away, and bring it directly into the city.
What makes it truly awe-inspiring is the craftsmanship. Standing at nearly 28 meters high in some places, its two tiers of arches are constructed from massive granite blocks fitted together with such precision that they require no mortar. You can’t help but be amazed by how it has withstood two millennia of time. Be sure to walk up the stairs on the side to get a view from a higher perspective—it’s the perfect spot to capture a photo and truly appreciate the genius of its design.
Great. The introduction is approved, and I have just finished my research on the Jewish Quarter.
Here is a draft for the next section of the article:
The Jewish Quarter (La Judería)
Just a stone’s throw from the bustling Plaza Mayor, you’ll find a different kind of Segovia, one that feels quieter and more introspective. This is the old Jewish Quarter, or La Judería, a labyrinth of narrow, cobblestone streets that tells a profound story of a community that once thrived here. From the 12th century until the Expulsion of 1492, this was the home of a prosperous Jewish population that played a vital role in the city’s economic and cultural life.
As you wander through this area, you’ll notice how the streets are a tangled web, a design meant to disorient outsiders but one that now rewards those who are willing to get a little lost. While many of the original buildings have been repurposed, their echoes remain. You can visit the former Old Main Synagogue, which was converted into the Church of Corpus Christi, a poignant reminder of the city’s complex past. For a deeper understanding, the Didactic Center of the Jewish Quarter offers an excellent look into the daily life, customs, and history of Segovia’s Sephardic community.
The Cathedral of Segovia
When you emerge from the winding streets of the Jewish Quarter and step into the Plaza Mayor, you are immediately greeted by the breathtaking sight of the Segovia Cathedral. Often referred to as “the Lady of the Cathedrals,” this magnificent structure is a testament to the enduring power of Gothic architecture, even as it was nearing its twilight. Built in the mid-16th century, its towering spires and intricate stonework dominate the skyline, a grand finale to a style that had defined Europe for centuries.
Walking inside is like stepping into a space carved out of light and stone. The sheer height of the nave, the delicate tracery of the vaults, and the stunning stained-glass windows fill the interior with a serene, otherworldly glow. Don’t miss the chance to visit the beautiful cloister and the numerous chapels, each with its own story and artistic treasures. For a truly unforgettable experience, consider a guided tour of the bell tower. The climb is worth it for the panoramic views of the city, from the red roofs of the old town to the distant Sierra de Guadarrama mountains.
Perfect. Let’s move on to the Alcázar.
Here is a draft for that section:
The Alcázar of Segovia
As you walk toward the western edge of the old city, you’ll feel like you’re stepping directly into a fairytale. Perched dramatically on a rocky promontory where the Eresma and Clamores rivers meet, the Alcázar of Segovia is a fortress straight out of a storybook, with its pointed turrets and majestic towers. It’s no wonder it’s rumored to have inspired Walt Disney’s Cinderella Castle. But beneath its whimsical exterior lies a complex and fascinating history.
Originally a Roman fort, the Alcázar was a favorite residence of the monarchs of Castile and a crucial strategic fortress. Its interior is just as captivating as its exterior. Inside, you can explore the grand Throne Room, the magnificent Hall of the Kings with its detailed frieze of Spanish monarchs, and the beautiful courtyards that transport you back in time. Be sure to climb the spiral staircase of the Tower of Juan II. The 152 steps are well worth the effort for the breathtaking, 360-degree views of the entire city and the surrounding countryside.
The Church of San Martín
As you wander through the heart of Segovia, you’ll inevitably stumble upon the Plaza de San Martín, a quiet, beautiful square that feels a world away from the main tourist paths. Dominating this space is the Church of San Martín, a lovely example of Segovia’s Romanesque architecture. Built in the 12th century, it’s a place that perfectly captures the city’s medieval charm without the grandeur of the major landmarks.
What makes this church so captivating is its distinct character. The portico, with its series of arches, provides a peaceful, shaded spot to rest and take in the atmosphere of the square. But the true highlight is the bell tower. Made of brick in the unique Mudéjar style, it stands out from the rest of the stone facade and serves as a beautiful blend of Christian and Islamic craftsmanship. It’s the kind of hidden gem that makes exploring Segovia’s side streets so rewarding.
Casa de los Picos
As you make your way toward the Aqueduct, keep an eye out for one of the most unusual and striking buildings in Segovia: the Casa de los Picos. This 15th-century palace is impossible to miss, thanks to its extraordinary facade completely covered in pyramid-shaped granite stones. It looks as if the building itself is a giant piece of artwork, bristling with spikes.
This unique and beautiful architecture, which gives the house its name, is a testament to the city’s rich history of noble families and distinctive design. While the interior now serves as an art school, you can still admire the exterior and its stunning courtyard. It’s one of those unexpected sights that you’ll be glad you noticed—a small but memorable detail that adds to the city’s charm.
Casa de los del Río
One of the great joys of exploring Segovia is discovering the smaller, less-known treasures tucked away on its side streets. The Casa de los del Río is a perfect example. This 15th-century palace, once a noble residence, might not have the dramatic flair of the Aqueduct or Alcázar, but it holds a quiet charm that’s just as captivating.
Located on a peaceful side street, its facade is adorned with a unique coat of arms and details that speak of its rich history. The real magic, however, lies in its beautiful courtyard. While the building is not open to the public, you can often peek through a narrow corridor to catch a glimpse of this secluded space. With its elegant helicoidal columns and a serene, moss-covered well, it feels like a secret garden in the heart of the city—a perfect moment of discovery for the curious traveler.
Plaza Mayor
Every great European city has a central square that acts as its beating heart, and in Segovia, that place is the magnificent Plaza Mayor. Unlike some of the other grand squares, this one feels intimate and inviting, a perfect place to slow down and soak in the atmosphere. Framed by charming cafes, restaurants, and the towering presence of the Cathedral, this is where the city’s daily life unfolds.
This square has witnessed centuries of history, from public festivals to everyday gatherings. It’s the perfect spot to grab a coffee or a glass of wine, find a bench, and simply watch the world go by. The gentle buzz of conversation, the sounds of church bells, and the sight of locals meeting up is a simple but essential part of the Segovian experience. It’s the perfect place to start or end your walking tour, a hub that connects all the historical gems you’ve just explored.
What to Eat
Segovia is a feast for all the senses, and that includes your taste buds. The city’s food scene is deeply rooted in tradition, featuring hearty, rustic dishes perfected over centuries.
Cochinillo Asado (Roast Suckling Pig): This is arguably Segovia’s most famous dish, a culinary icon you absolutely must try. The piglets, no more than a few weeks old, are slow-roasted in a traditional wood-fired oven. The result is impossibly tender meat that practically melts in your mouth, topped with a crackling, crispy skin. The famous tradition of cutting the pig with a plate to prove its tenderness is a memorable spectacle you can find at many of the city’s restaurants.
Cordero Asado (Roast Lamb): For those who prefer lamb, cordero asado is another Segovian specialty. Also slow-roasted to perfection, the lamb is incredibly succulent and flavorful. Like the suckling pig, it’s a simple dish that relies on the quality of the meat and the traditional cooking method to produce an unforgettable flavor.
Judiones de la Granja (White Bean Stew): This isn’t just a simple bean dish—it’s a hearty and flavorful stew. Made with large white beans from the nearby town of La Granja, this stew is cooked with various pork products like chorizo, pork ears, and blood sausage. It’s the perfect comfort food for a chilly day and a true taste of Castilian gastronomy.
Sopa Castellana (Castilian Garlic Soup): Don’t let the name fool you. This isn’t your average soup. Sopa Castellana is a rustic, humble, but incredibly delicious dish made with garlic, paprika, stale bread, and a poached egg, all simmered in a rich broth, often with a hint of cured ham. It’s a wonderful, warming starter that embodies the flavors of the region.
Ponche Segoviano: After a big meal, you’ll need something sweet. The Ponche Segoviano is Segovia’s signature dessert. It’s a beautiful, multi-layered cake made of a light sponge cake soaked in syrup, filled with cream and custard, and covered in a layer of marzipan. The top is then decorated with a distinctive burnt lattice pattern. It’s a sweet, elegant way to end your meal.
Churros con Chocolate: While you can find this classic all over Spain, a cup of thick, decadent hot chocolate with crispy, freshly fried churros is a ritual you should not miss. It’s the perfect treat for a late-morning snack or an afternoon pick-me-up.
Where to Eat
Segovia’s culinary fame is built on its traditional flavors, and finding the right place to experience them is half the adventure. Here are some of the city’s most renowned restaurants, each offering a unique taste of Segovia.
Horno de asar Manrique: A true local institution, this restaurant is known for its traditional approach to roasting. Tucked away from the main tourist hubs, it offers a more intimate and authentic dining experience. Their focus on the art of the horno de asar (roasting oven) means you’ll find impeccably prepared cochinillo and cordero, cooked to tender perfection with a crispy finish.
Restaurante Mesón de Cándido: Located right next to the Aqueduct, Mesón de Cándido is more than just a restaurant—it’s a Segovian institution. The famed proprietor, Cándido, made the act of carving the cochinillo with a plate a national ritual. While it can be very busy, the historic atmosphere and the theatrical presentation of the food make it an unforgettable experience. This is the place to go for a taste of history alongside your meal.
Asador Maribel: This charming restaurant strikes a perfect balance between tradition and modern touches. It’s known for its high-quality ingredients, with a special emphasis on locally sourced meats. While the roast suckling pig is a must-try, their roast lamb is also highly praised. The cozy atmosphere and friendly service make it a favorite for many travelers and locals alike.
Jose Maria’s Restaurant: Located in the historic heart of the city, Jose Maria’s is a benchmark for fine Segovian dining. The restaurant is celebrated for its elegant atmosphere and excellent service, making it a wonderful choice for a special occasion. While their cochinillo is legendary, they also offer a wide menu of other traditional dishes and an impressive wine list, making it a gastronomic highlight of any trip.
El Sitio: Tucked away just a minute from the Plaza Mayor, El Sitio offers a genuine, home-cooked Segovian experience. This restaurant is a great spot to see locals and tourists mingling in a lively, authentic setting. They focus on classic Castilian dishes made with quality local products. It’s the perfect place for a relaxed meal where you can truly feel the local spirit of the city.
Restaurante El Bernardino: One of the city’s oldest restaurants, El Bernardino has been serving traditional food since 1939. Located on a central street, its long history is evident in the classic, rustic feel of the dining room. They specialize in wood-fired roasts, from their famous suckling pig to their roast lamb. It’s a fantastic choice for those who want to dine in a place with a storied past and a reputation for classic, hearty cooking.
Where to Stay
When choosing a place to stay in Segovia, you can find options for every travel style and budget.
Luxury
- Áurea Convento Capuchinos: For a truly unique and luxurious experience, this 5-star hotel is built within a restored 16th-century convent. It combines historical charm with modern amenities, including a spa and elegant rooms.
- Parador de Segovia: Located on a hill just outside the city walls, this modern hotel offers some of the most spectacular panoramic views of Segovia’s old town and its iconic landmarks.
Mid-range
- Hotel Real Segovia: This centrally located hotel is just a 5-minute walk from the Aqueduct, making it an ideal base for exploring all the city has to offer on foot.
- Hotel Infanta Isabel: Situated directly on the Plaza Mayor, this hotel gives you a front-row seat to the heart of the city, with the Cathedral right at your doorstep.
- Hotel El Rancho: For a peaceful countryside retreat, this hotel is a converted 17th-century barn just a short drive from Segovia. It offers a rustic, charming stay with a touch of elegance.
Budget-friendly
- Hospedaje Bar El Gato: This is a simple guesthouse that offers a very convenient location near the Aqueduct, providing a clean and affordable option for budget-conscious travelers.
- Duermevela Hostel: A popular choice for backpackers and solo travelers, this hostel provides a comfortable and social environment at a great price. It’s located within walking distance of many of the city’s sights.
Tips for Your Visit
- Walk This Way: Segovia’s charm lies in its medieval streets, but they are full of hills and uneven cobblestones. Do yourself a favor and wear comfortable shoes. Your feet will thank you after a day of exploring.
- Explore on Two Wheels: If you want to see a different side of the city, consider renting a bicycle in Plaza Mayor. This is a great way to explore the city’s green belt and the areas outside the old town walls.
- Shop Like a Local: If you happen to be in Segovia on a Thursday morning, make your way to Plaza Mayor. A small, lively market is held there, where you can find everything from fresh produce to local crafts.
- A Unique Sunday Morning: For a truly unique and spiritual experience, attend the midday mass on Sunday at the Monastery of Santa María del Parral. The service includes beautiful Gregorian chants performed by the monks, a serene and unforgettable moment.
How to get there
Segovia’s proximity to Madrid makes it an incredibly easy destination to reach. The two most popular and efficient ways to get there are by train or bus.
- By Train: For a quick and modern journey, the high-speed train is your best bet. The trip from Madrid’s Chamartín station to Segovia-Guiomar station takes just under 30 minutes. Be aware that Segovia’s train station is a bit outside the city center, so you will need to take a local bus or a taxi to reach the historic core.
- By Bus: If you prefer to be dropped off right in the heart of the city, the bus is a fantastic alternative. Buses from Madrid’s Moncloa station take about 1 hour and 20 minutes and arrive at Segovia’s bus station, which is conveniently located near the Aqueduct. It’s a slightly longer but often cheaper option that saves you the trouble of a connecting ride.
Getting There: The drive from Madrid is straightforward, typically taking a bit over an hour. The most common route is to take the A-6 highway, which connects to the AP-6 and AP-61 toll roads. These roads are well-maintained and offer scenic views of the Guadarrama mountains.
Navigating the City: The historic center of Segovia is best explored on foot. Its narrow, winding, and often crowded cobblestone streets are not designed for car traffic. It’s highly recommended that you avoid trying to drive into the old town itself.
Where to Park: The key to driving to Segovia is knowing where to park. Thankfully, there are several large, convenient parking garages located just outside the historic core. The Aparcamiento Acueducto Oriental is a popular and well-located underground garage right next to the Aqueduct, making it a perfect starting point for your walking tour. Another option is to park at the high-speed train station and take a short bus or taxi ride into the city.
How Much Time Do You Need in Segovia?
Segovia is an excellent destination for a day trip. Its main attractions—the Aqueduct, the Cathedral, and the Alcázar—are all within easy walking distance of each other. You can see the highlights and have a leisurely meal in a single, well-paced day.
However, if you have the time, staying overnight is highly recommended. The atmosphere in the evening, after the day-trippers have left, is magical. The cobblestone streets become quiet, and you get to experience the city at a more relaxed pace. Spending two days allows you to explore the Jewish Quarter and other smaller churches, giving you a deeper appreciation for this enchanting city.
